The 2004 Pago Garduna is 100% Syrah barrel fermented and aged for 24 months in new French oak. Opaque purple-colored, it offers a stylish perfume of pain grille, violets, mineral, espresso, and wild blueberry. Full-bodied, layered, ripe, and spicy, it neatly conceals enough tannin to age for 3-5 years in the cellar. Drink this pleasing wine through 2025. Importer: Kobrand Corporation, New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

Big, meaty and broad, with thick, masculine coal, pepper and blackberry aromas. This marks a nice comeback for Abadia Retuerta, which had some weak wines in 2002 and ’03; this single-vineyard Syrah is lush, loaded and bursting with char, chocolate and deep fruit. It has size, power and balance pulling it in the right direction. Probably better in another year or so.——M.S.(4/1/2008)—— 93