Not surprisingly, Yves Vatelot’s estate produces a dry white wine that eclipses its humble appellation. The final blend of 53% Sauvignon Blanc, 35% Semillon, and the rest Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle exhibits surprising texture, honeyed grapefruit and lemon zest notes, with medium body, some sensual smoked herbs and earth, and a long finish. This is a beauty that should drink well for 3-4 years, if not longer.