A portion of Muskateller was left hanging to botrytize, but that never happened. Instead, we have a 2006 Gelber Muskateller Grosse Reserve (technically an Auslese) whose sweetness is so discreet as to scarcely be worth mentioning. Its 14.5% alcohol is another matter, showing through as a bit of heat. The wine’s orange marmalade, sage, and coffee-mocha scents and flavors are impressively intense and its oily-richness of texture is imposing. This would be fun to experiment with at table, though like its brisk sibling, should probably be enjoyed by Spring of 2009. Like many growers along the Danube, Gerard Malat began harvesting already in mid-September to insure some light-weight wines appropriate to summer, 2008 consumption, and finished at the end of October. From three sites in the Hohlgraben,Importers: Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870.