Falesco's 1995 Poggio dei Gelsi Est! Est! Est! is a fresh, lively, mineral-styled wine that reminds me of a crisp Muscadet from France's Loire Valley. Light-bodied, but aromatic, fresh, and pure, this is a wine to drink over the next 8-12 months. This wine is from an estate owned by one of Italy's most renowned oenologists/winemakers, Riccardo Cotarella. One of the young geniuses that has revolutionized winemaking in Italy, Riccardo Cotarella is the spiritual equivalent of Michel Rolland in France. His brother, Renzo, is the chief winemaker for Piero Antinori. Cotarella's position with respect to white wines is to preserve their fruit, recognizing they should be fermented at low temperatures and bottled as early as possible.Kudos to Riccardo Cotarella for this extraordinary showing of just what brilliant quality can be achieved from the vineyards of Umbria. As I mentioned, Cotarella is the Michel Rolland of Italy. As with Rolland, whom readers of The Wine Advocate discovered long before he became known to the international wine press, I predict Cotarella will be gracing the cover of leading wine magazines over the next few years.Leonardo LoCascio, Winebow, Inc., 22 Hollywood Ave., Suite C, Hohokus, NJ 07423; telephone number (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9869