Riccardo Cotarella, the brilliant oenologist who oversees the winemaking at the Falesco estate in Lazio, has produced a 1996 Poggio dei Gelsi Est Est Est from a blend of 50% Trebbiano, 30% Rosetto, and 20% Malvasia. Completely tank-fermented and aged, in addition to being bottled early, it is a fruity, light straw-colored wine with excellent aromatics (white peaches and a whiff of honey). The bouquet is followed by medium-bodied, refreshing, crisp, delicious, fruity flavors. It should be drunk over the next year. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620