The one-dimensional, light to medium ruby-colored 2004 Clos de Gilroy exhibits soft, fruity, raspberry and cherry aromas, but falls off on the palate. At best, it is a picnic-styled quaffer for uncritical drinking. Bonny Doon Vineyard, run by the irrepressible Randall Grahm, now produces nearly 400,000 cases of wine, yet it continues to cultivate an image of a small, boutique winery. Some of the wine world’s most innovative packaging is created by this estate, but, as I have written before, the quality in the bottle has declined from Bonny Doon’s glory years (in the mid-eighties) when Grahm was both a pioneer and a committed Rhone Ranger revolutionary. It now appears to be all about image and high production, resulting in somewhat innocuous offerings. Tel. (831) 425-3625

This is a California-style Beaujolais Nouveau. It’s fresh, jammy, racy and dry, with raspberry flavors and a crisp mouthfeel. ——S.H.(6/1/2005)—— 84