The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Reserve boasts surprising elegance in this vintage, which tends to be very big, fruit-forward, and classically Napa. This is a medium-bodied, cedary, spice box-filled Cabernet Sauvignon with notes of toasty oak intermixed with black currant, cherry, and earth. The wine is medium-bodied and well-made, but some firm tannins in the finish suggest aging it for another several years and drinking it over the following 15+ years. Tel. (707) 963-5711; Fax (707) 963-7518

The vineyard is source of high-quality fruit, but also intense mountain tannins that require time to melt. Under those tannins is dramatically rich black currant and carob fruit flavor, easily big enough to sustain 100% new French oak. By 2009 this 100% Cab should begin to soften and sweeten, and it will drink beautifully for at least six more years.——S.H.(12/15/2007)—— 93