The 2006 Falerno del Massico Bianco is a drop-dead gorgeous white from Campania. It reveals a darker color than the regular Falanghina, with a soft-textured, layered expression of honeyed peaches and pears intermingled with spice, mineral and acacia overtones that develop in the glass. A beautiful, poised wine, it offers remarkable balance and class, particularly at this level. Falerno del Massico is an ancient clone of Falanghina, with a lineage that goes back several thousand years. In these volcanic soils it is capable of yielding wines of remarkable complexity that stand far apart from the more commercial Falanghinas that are all the rage these days. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Villa Matilde is one of the most fascinating properties in Campania, an area with an oenological history that is among the oldest and richest in the world. The estate boasts several important terroirs in addition to a number of ancient clones of the region's indigenous varieties. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Round, voluptuous and soft, this golden Falerno del Massico (made from an antique clone of Falanghina) delivers stone fruit, pear, grapefruit and tart citrus shadings. It tastes full and satisfying and is a modern interpretation of what the ancient Romans drank. ——M.L.(10/1/2008)—— 87