The 2006 Chianti Classico is a beautiful, plump wine loaded with vibrant, sweet, ripe fruit. It offers lovely depth in an engaging style that is sure to find many admirers. This is a terrific effort from one of Italy’s most consistently outstanding producers. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. Felsina is a reference-point estate for everything that represents the finest of Chianti Classico. Proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time consulting oenologist Franco Bernabei make some of the most expressive wines in Italy. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Earthy, warm cherry fruit aromas plus whiffs of cooked beetroot and fallen leaves. Elegant, medium bodied style with crisp acidity and soft tannins. Long finish. Drink now to 2013. Tasted April 2009.

The nose here is neutral and less intense than other Chianti Classicos. Although you get tones of cherry fruit, blue flowers and spice, it would be nice to have more of them. The wine offers a vibrant, youthful feel in the mouth with bright cherry notes on the finish.——M.L.(9/1/2008)—— 86