The 2007 Chianti Classico is a sweet, super-ripe wine with an enticing core of fruit. The heat of the vintage has filled out the wine nicely. Although the acidity is still relatively high, this doesn’t look to be an especially long-lived wine. That should hardly matter, though, as readers will have a hard time keeping their hands off this gem. In 2007 the Chianti Classico is a selection of fruit from eleven different vineyards harvested between the end of September and early October. The wine was mostly aged in cask, with about 10% seeing smaller neutral French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. If you were to cut proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin’s veins the man would bleed Sangiovese, such is his passion for Tuscany’s most important native grape. Mazzocolin has a terrific set of new releases on his hands. The 2006s are glorious and benefit from a warm growing season that also saw good alternation of day and evening temperatures before the grapes got a final kick of heat that informs the wines. In 2007, I have only tasted the Chianti Classico so far, but if that wine is indicative, Felsina could have another superb vintage in store for fans of this venerable property. So far 2007 looks to be a vintage of ripe wines made in a more generous, if early maturing style, than the firmer 2006s. Not only are Felsina’s wines magnificent, they also remain exceedingly fairly priced in relative terms. Mazzocolin deserves much credit and support from readers for his consumer-friendly approach, especially in these challenging times.Various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Wine Warehouse, City of Commerce, CA; tel. (323) 724-1700; Maverick Wine Company, Binseville, IL; tel. (630) 860-4600; Prestige Wine Cellar, Dallas, TX; tel. (214) 823-9272; DeLuca Liquor & Wine Nevada Wine Agents, North Las Vegas, NV; tel. (702) 669-3916; Baroness Wine Distributors, Denver, CO; tel. (303)934-1300; Transatlantic/Southern Wine & Spirits, Miramar, FL; tel. (305) 625-4171; Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; tel. (410) 633-0400

Felsina delivers a pretty mineral vein that frames the wine’s vibrant aromas of dried currants, cherry, white earth, dried violets, very light smoke and cedar wood. The wine has structure— thanks to that natural minerality—and wonderful persistency with a clean and defined finish.——M.L.(6/1/2009)—— 88