The 2010 Etna Rosso Cavanera Rovo delle Coturnie is one of the volcano’s biggest and blackest wines. The blend is 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio and the oak regime includes nine months in both barrique and large Slavonian oak casks. Soft oak spice and jammy fruit is offset by firm tannic structure. Like the other wines in this winery’s portfolio, those oak tones are too much of a good thing. Firriato’s recently restored winery on Etna sits on the foundations of an ancient palmento (or ancient crush pad and fermentation area). Drink 2016-2022. The ultimate Sicilian power couple, Salvatore Di Gaetano and the ever-alluring Vinzia Novara are the brains, brawn and beauty behind one of Sicily’s most successful, but highly individualistic brands. Firriato has always marched to its own drum. They are part of the first wave of bigger companies to invest on Etna, and they are the first to make wine on the arid island of Favignana off the Trapani coastline. The Firriato winemaking style is, to my mind, the most oak-forward and “international” in Sicily today. Importer: Soilair Selection, www.soilairselection.com