A real beauty is the 2004 Crozes-Hermitage Tour d’Albon. Dark ruby/purple with sweet tapenade and black cherry notes with a hint of raspberry and licorice, the wine offers excellent texture, richness, and is a successful 2004. The very talented Burgundian Jacques Granges continues to build on the success he has had at Delas Freres. He, along with the new owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne empire (they recently acquired Pichon-Lalande in Pauillac as well), have been responsible for the resurrection of Delas from a so-so negociant to one of the better sources of top-quality Rhones. And this has been done in less than a decade. 2004 is a classic vintage of structure and good balance, but too often lacking concentration. The 2005s are much more concentrated but also structured, tannic, and backward.Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Elegant and pure, with supple cherry, spice and mineral notes that linger on the lengthy, tangy finish. Not imported into the U.S. Drink now. 2,095 cases made. -JM