Cortese’s 2006 Barbera d’Alba offers up gorgeous super-ripe aromas along with tons of fleshy, ripe fruit. This is a wine that sometimes comes across as rather austere, yet in 2006 the heat of the vintage has filled out the wine nicely. Hints of tar and licorice develop in the glass, yet this remains a wine that is mostly about fruit. It, too, is a commendable effort. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. From top to bottom this is very strong set of wines from Cortese, something I haven’t always been able to say. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620