The 2010 Pago Valdebellon, pure Cabernet Sauvignon from their higher-altitude vineyard which shows a slightly reductive nose (we opened two bottles and one was more reductive than the other, but they both were) with those notes intermixed with the herbal aromas of the variety that point to the need for energetic decanting. The palate is medium to full-bodied with grainy tannins and just enough acidity, with final flavors coming from the barrel. Drink 2014-2019. Abadia Retuerta is located in Sardon de Duero, a winery created in the mid-1990s with the help of Bordeaux vigneron Pascal Delbeck and owned by the Swiss pharmaceutical company Novartis. The vineyards were planted after a detailed study of the soils between 1991 and 1994 just outside the boundaries of Ribera del Duero (in fact, part of their vineyards are within the appellation’s limits), with the first wines, Vinos de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon, being releases from the 1995-1996 harvest. The resident winemaker is Angel Anocibar, with whom I met one morning in their Madrid offices to taste the latest releases. We tasted 2010 and 2011, two vintages they consider to be very good but with slightly different character. Anocibar considers 2011 an almost perfect vintage, with perfect conditions throughout the cycle, with just a little bit of heat at the end, the last week or so. The wines are 15% alcohol and full of polyphenols, big wines that needed gentle vinification. 2010 was also warm and ripe but the average temperatures were achieved by a couple of warm months at the end of the cycle, which was a little behind until June. They usually harvest earlier than the rest and look for freshness in their wines. There is quite a change with the 2009 vintage, because when they do less maceration – especially in the end, as alcohol extracts the harsh tannins – and the wines are fresher and more drinkable, offering prime harmony in the palate as well as freshness and drinkability. Importer: Europvin USA, www.europvin.com