Pure white chalk, chicken stock, and shrimp shell reduction seem to be the dominant denominations of Fevre’s 2007 Chablis Bougros Cote de Bouguerots (from the steep, riverside portion of Bougros). Implacably stony – especially in its ineradicable finish – this is nevertheless vibrant and seductively savory, thanks to its poultry and piscine richness and suggestions of ripe yellow plum and citrus. It is less fun to drink than the “regular” Bougros, but with some patience, scaling this wall of chalk will offer spectacular gustatory vistas over the coming decade. Didier Seguier and his team have managed to follow up their amazing 2006s with an equally remarkable collection of 2007s (though he insists that 6 to 9 months after bottling – when I tasted them – “is the worst time for expressing the purity of fruit”!). Harvesting here began early, on September 6 – the earliest start on record save for 2003 – but without feeling any compunction about taking one’s time, Seguier emphasized. Even so, the task was completed in 11 days, harvesting fruit of impeccable ripeness and harmonious though prominent acidity at a time when many growers were wise not to have begun yet. Without question, the rigorous sorting that all of the grapes undergo here is among the keys to the purity and the transparency to nuance of these wines. As usual at this address, even when one reaches the roughly 80% level of barrique (none, new, though) a smell or taste of wood is the farthest thing from one’s mind.Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6706

A ripe, bold and impressive wine, showing yellow peaches and pineapple flavors to go with its tight core of minerality. There is a touch of wood, but the main thrust is for broad fruit, open and welcoming. ——R.V.(7/1/2010)—— 95