The 2005 Barbaresco Roncaglie is a gorgeous, primary wine loaded with ripe red fruit. It shows notable density and richness in an expansive style. The tannins build on the finish but the intensity of the fruit never wavers in this gorgeous full-bodied Barbaresco. This vibrant, fruit-driven wine needs time in the bottle to acquire its full range of nuances but there is a compelling core of perfumed roses, sweet spices and cherries that emerges from time to time, suggesting this Barbaresco has a very bright future. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. Colla is among the producers who have fashioned a stronger Barbaresco in 2005 than 2004. The rest of the line-up is solid as well. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Aromas on this Barbaresco from the Roncaglie cru are perfumed and fragrant and recall bee’s wax, lavender, potpourri, violet, anise, cinnamon and ginger. This is a delicate and feminine expression with sour notes of cherry and wild berry on the close and firm, dusty tannins.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 89