Having a cellar full of 1988 red Burgundies to serve as a constant reminder of why I do not like this hard, tannic vintage, readers can imagine my surprise when I tasted Lignier's outstanding 1988 Clos de la Roche. While most of its counterparts from the Cote d'Or's top producers are drying out, Lignier's '88 has loads of fruit to cope with its firm, tannic backbone. It reveals mouth-watering cedar, tobacco, candle wax, and blackberry aromas. On the palate, this medium-to-full-bodied wine has superb depth to its black cherry and spice cake-flavored character. While it does have copious quantities of firm tannins, its finish remains long, ripe, and sweet. Anticipated maturity: now-2005.