If I was asked to hold up a bottle of what modern Ribera del Duero should taste like and what is should aspire to, the 2008 Alion would be the one in my hand. It has more intensity and volume on the nose when compared directly with the 2007. Tasted in February 2012, and then in January 2013, it remains a fabulous expression of Ribera del Duero. It boasts of heavenly bouquet of black plum, crushed violets and tobacco that soar from the glass, while displaying a level of delineation that would serve a lesson to many of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, silky-smooth tannins that belie the structure underneath. The acidity lends the 2008 a little more edginess than the 2007, while the finish has a wonderful sense of symmetry and focus. World class. Drink 2016-2025+. Alion should need no introduction. Owned by the Alvarez family of Vega Sicilia, the 85 hectare estate included 35 hectares around the winery and 50 hectares with Vega Sicilia itself. Debuting in 1991, the wine is sourced from 20-year-old Tinto Fino that undergoes a modern style of winemaking, using state-of-the-art technology and maturation in Nevers French oak barrels for 12 to 14 months. Pablo Alvarez describes Alion as “a wine somewhere between Ribera del Duero and a Medoc in style.” Importer: Christopher Cannan; www.europvin.com