A step up in price as well as quality is the 2002 Esprit de Beaucastel white. There are 1,700 cases of this beautiful blend of 70% Roussanne, 25% Grenache Blanc, and 5% Viognier. Aged in a combination of stainless steel and wood, it exhibits spicy, rose petal, and citrus oil notes as well as hints of licorice, honeysuckle, and tropical fruits. Full-bodied, powerful yet elegant, it should be consumed over the next 2-3 years. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314

A step up in price as well as quality is the 2002 Esprit de Beaucastel white. There are 1,700 cases of this beautiful blend of 70% Roussanne, 25% Grenache Blanc, and 5% Viognier. Aged in a combination of stainless steel and wood, it exhibits spicy, rose petal, and citrus oil notes as well as hints of licorice, honeysuckle, and tropical fruits. Full-bodied, powerful yet elegant, it should be consumed over the next 2-3 years. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314

Interesting, complex and different from the usual fare. This Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Viognier blend has nutty flavors subtly enhanced with white peach and tropical flowers. There’s a hit of smoky oak and vanilla in there, but not too much. Drinks young and fresh, and should improve through 2008. ——S.H.(5/1/2004)—— 92