The 1990 Barolo Riserva is initially shy and reticent but opens gradually to show deep layers of dried fruit, spice, leather and tobacco. It wears its age well with pretty tertiary aromas of dark licorice and cola, although there is little fruit left to drive further significant evolution. It does, however, caress the palate nicely with finely polished tannins, good grip and determination in the mouth. The finish shows medium length and complexity. This wine does a nice job of showcasing aged Nebbiolo, although it lacks the stunning depth this grape is capable of delivering in the most exceptional cases. Don’t hold this bottle much longer. Drink: 2014-2017.