More rustic, masculine, and meaty, the 2006 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Roure is a darker-colored wine with more gamy notes of herbs, underbrush, scorched earth, and sweet red fruits. Drink this round 2006 over the next 7-8 years. I have previously documented the decline in quality at this estate following the tragic death of Gerard Jaboulet. That ended in the unexpected sale of Paul Jaboulet-Aine to the Frey family that has done such brilliant work at Bordeaux’s Chateau La Lagune, and are major shareholders in the superb Champagne house of Billecart-Salmon. No doubt they will resurrect the reputation and the quality of the Jaboulet wines, as this was the leading estate in the northern Rhone during the sixties, seventies, and eighties. The Freys have already made some dramatic changes, moving toward eliminating the negociant line of wines, and concentrating exclusively on estate bottled offerings. They own over 120 acres in the northern Rhone as well as 14+ acres in the southern Rhone. The following offerings reflect the recent changes and a work in progress, with the 2006s still under-performing (the Frey family was not in a position to do much in that vintage). The 2007s are clearly better, and I believe that in a few years, when the northern Rhone has its next great vintage, consumers will see a dramatic increase in quality as the new owners have already brought in the world-famous oenologist, Professor Denis Dubourdieu as a consultant. Any readers who have some of the old vintages of Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert in their cellars should be checking them out. The 1978 and 1990 are still brilliant wines, but neither the 2006 or the 2007 will invoke memories of those wines. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

With its soft tannins and slightly creamy texture, the open-knit 2006 Domaine de Roure is very approachable now. Vanilla and plum notes come across as slightly oaky, but hints of olive and espresso emerge on the finish. Drink now–2015. ——J.C.(8/1/2011)—— 88