Candied lemon, honey, peach preserves, musk, and truffle present themselves with pungently penetrating, distillate-like concentration on the nose of the 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (A.P. #14), which was assembled from selective pickings in numerous parcels. A confectionary impression much like that of the corresponding Braune Kupp is accentuated by a rather Eiswein-like suggestion of vanilla icing. This is even more enveloping and rich, as well as much more homogeneous than that Kupp, and its phenomenally long finish seems to blanket the palate, to the slight detriment of complexity. Here is a wine worth at least a half century’s cellaring, and any lucky to have bid high enough for it would be well advised not to revisit a bottle for at least 15 years.
Egon Muller compares his 2007s with the wines of 1997, which here displayed exceptional purity and advanced, largely noble rot-free ripeness, although the total number of bottlings in 2007 was significantly smaller, and the number of Auslesen alone this year three times greater. (I missed tasting one Spatlese, A.P. #6 that sold out early on, and I have not yet tasted this year’s Trockenbeerenauslese, which hadn’t even finished fermenting on the occasion when I tasted Muller’s other 2007s.)
Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY (212) 355 0700