As the scores attest, Sanford is one of California's most fashionable wineries. Consumers are demanding more flavor and complexity, and Sanford's wines deliver the goods. While these wines may be criticized for lacking subtlety, they are exciting wines that can dazzle the palate. Long known for its brilliant, dramatic, oaky Chardonnays, lovers of that lusty, no-holds-barred style of Chardonnay will be thrilled with Sanford's current releases. The 1991 Chardonnay-Santa Barbara possesses a big, expressive nose of honeyed tropical fruits and toasty oak. It provides considerable pleasure. Fleshy, rich, and concentrated, it is all a Chardonnay should be. Moreover, it is nicely held together with crisp acidity, essential in a wine of these proportions.