The 1998 Cote Rotie La Landonne is a perfect wine ... at least for my palate. Its saturated black/purple color is accompanied by an extraordinary nose of smoke, incense, tapenade, creosote, blackberry, and currant aromas. It is densely packed with blackberry, truffle, chocolate, and leather-like flavors. The wine possesses high tannin, but perfect harmony, impeccable balance, and gorgeous integration of acidity, alcohol, and tannin. It is a tour de force in winemaking. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2025. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

Fantastic. This full-bodied, pitch-black wine caresses the palate with a thick and opulent texture, ultrasoft tannins and rich fruit, then explodes with fresh, vibrant intensity, leaving a long trail of memories on the smoke, cassis, black currant, mineral aftertaste. Drink now through 2020. 830 cases made. -PM

This is almost certainly the most famous Cote Rotie from the best vineyard in the appellation. It is a wine for power. Dry fruits and tanninc aromas give an immediate sense of structure and strength. On the palate, it is wild, savage almost, with huge tannins and untamed exotic perfumes. The wood—42 months in new wood—seems almost incidental to the power of the fruit. The aging potential is obviously enormous. ——R.V.(6/1/2002)—— 97