One of the most elegant and ready-to-drink la Landonnes in the past 10-12 years is the 2004 Cote Rotie la Landonne. Already perfumed and complex, with beautiful smoked beef, rose petals, forest floor and sweet dark fruits, it almost has a Pinot Noir-like elegance and seamlessness. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated, and with nicely integrated acidity, drink it anytime over the coming decade.

A gorgeous nose of crushed plum and Turkish coffee gives way to a plush-textured palate of warm fig, mocha, fruitcake and mesquite. Still a touch taut, but pure on the finish, with fine-grained tannins and mouthwatering minerality. Drink now through 2023. 800 cases made. -JM