Readers may want to note that the Jaboulets will be releasing 20,000 3-bottle cases of a 1996 Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Speciale for the turn of the century. There also will be 1,000 magnums of this wine. It is a selection from the oldest Crozes-Hermitage vines owned by the Jaboulets (I assume most of it emerges from the Thalabert Vineyard). Explosive, rich, and immensely impressive, it is one of the finest Croze-Hermitages I have ever tasted. The color is a saturated black/purple. The wine possesses considerable size and substance, with gobs of cassis fruit intermixed with roasted herbs, truffles, and smoked meat characteristics. It should reach its peak in 3-4 years and last for 15 or more. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700