This is excellent soil for the Montepulciano grape, as the 2000 Rosso Conero Riserva Cimerio demonstrates. Bright ruby in color, ripe, chocolatey, and tarry on the nose, it is full, soft, and sensual in texture, but with plenty of length and solidity on the finish. Drink: 2005-2012. A very large cooperative winery in the Marches (4300 acres of vineyards among its members), Terre Cortesi Moncaro has now moved into higher gear with the decision to engage Riccardo Cotarella to supervise the winemaking for the selections. I imagine, nonetheless, that we are just at the beginning here, and that the red wines, particularly those made in the province of Ascoli Piceno in the warm southern part of the region, have plenty of margin for improvement in coming years.Importer: Matt Bros., New York, NY; tel. (212) 587-8147