Here’s one mighty fine and interesting Zin. It has the smoothness of a great red wine, with a rich, fruity complexity that lasts through a long finish. The flavors are classic Zin, all wild berries and cocoa, with a dusting of raisins. The alcohol is enormous, but the wine is dry, and doesn’t taste hot. With short ribs, it’s a marriage made in heaven. ——S.H.(5/1/2006)—— 92