The opaque ruby/purple-colored 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Old Reserve reveals leathery, animal-like notes intermingled with classic aromas of creme de cassis, smoke, and underbrush. Ripe, medium-bodied, and moderately tannic, it is more accessible than the 2000 Estate, but also more rustic as well as artisinal. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2015.Tel. (408) 867-5832; Fax (408) 867-4329

Still a baby, and easy to misunderstand, but this is one serious puppy. Youthful tannins and acids frame juvenile, primary fruit flavors of blackberries, and oak has been tastefully applied. But the rich core of fruit, and overall balance, urge longterm aging for a good ten years.——S.H.(8/1/2003)—— 92