You might suppose that, having taken us to the mid-section of Burgergarten, the 2004 Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spatlese trocken “Gehren” would taste like a cross between its predecessors, but in fact the flavors represent a change in subject. “The berries on these old vines, like those of Aspen, were tiny and golden,” relates Franzen. Dried pear, lemon zest, black tea and smoked meat inform a pungent, high toned aromatic display. On the palate and in its finish, this is incredibly concentrated, pungent, salty, lightly bitter, and faintly warm. The texture gives no quarter either, being dense but grainy and not at all plush or creamy. The smokiness and stoniness, along with the counterpoint of density and intense but intimately woven-in acidity, put me a bit in mind of Savennieres. The name “Gehren” a frequent occurrence in old German vineyard names, is thought to derive from the shape of a spear, and it is as such entirely apt for this formidably thrusting, stone-tipped wine. The 13.5% alcohol is slightly noticeable in the finish, but I have seen many a Catoir Riesling throw off the shackles of considerably higher alcohol than this in the course of its evolution - which leads me to cautiously address the subject of ageability. I would suggest one monitor these three wines closely over a 10 or 12 year period, but not assume in advance when they will be most expressive, nor that they will necessarily repay cellaring beyond that point. The fact is, that in rewarding yourself and the estate with the purchase of these fascinating and expensive single-parcel Rieslings, you are participating in an exciting experiment. Since the arrival of young Mosel-born Martin Franzen at this great estate so long associated with the wisdom and artistry of Hans-Gunter Schwarz’s 36-year tenure as cellar master, I have been struck by a degree of qualitative continuity and stylistic affinity with the ancient regime that other commentators seem not to have noticed. In a very real sense, the legacy of Schwarz – “activism in the vines, minimalism in the cellar” – has seeped indelibly into the fabric of nearly every top winery in the Pfalz. How then could it be otherwise precisely at Mandelring #25? And although Franzen and a largely new team were forced, to a considerable extent, to rediscover the keys to these vines and sites, they are the same vines and sites so carefully tended, trained and conscientiously replanted over the past decades by the then team of Catoir and Schwarz. In 2004, Franzen has unlocked from them astonishingly numerous and improbably fine vinous treasures such as one has come to associate with the name “Muller-Catoir” in the nearly four decades since a very young Heinrich Catoir inherited this estate and decided to make a statement.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
