Long-Depaquit’s 2008 Chablis Beugnons – from the estate’s oldest vines – signals its tart, bracing personality already in the nose, with scents of fresh lemon and gooseberry. An unusual hint of toasted peanuts emerges as this takes on air. Firm and bright, it’s a bit more savory and mouth-watering in finish than the corresponding Vaillons but less mineral, and with rather pronounced citrus pip bitterness. I would expect it to hold well – and hopefully loosen-up a bit – over the next 3-4 years. The Long-Depaquit 2008 grand crus were bottled already in January, though had I not known this I might have been tempted to ascribe their firmness and at times somewhat muted flavors in April to post-bottling shock. Seemingly aware of their potential for austerity, Long-Depaquit director Matthieu Mangenot indicated that he quite actively worked the lees of his young 2008s.Various importers, including Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515 and Bayfield Importing, Long Island, NY (718) 482-0200

Structured, tight-knit nose. Firm, flinty palate, some weight. tight-knit. youthful, needs time.