Blackberries and cassis can be discerned in the nose of the big, bold 2001 Clos Vougeot. An inky, enormously deep, medium-bodied wine, it slathers the palate with intensely flavored black cherries, a myriad spices, juniper berries, toast, and hints of licorice. Powerful, fleshy, and fresh, it has a sumptuous finish that exhibits some road tar-like flavors. Projected maturity: 2005-2012. According to Jean-Nicolas Meo, this estate’s director and winemaker, “2001 is a good vintage, more strict and severe than 1999 and 2000, with more acidity and bite, less fat, and more austere. It has good cellaring potential because the balance of the wines is excellent.” Meo’s 2001s were particularly successful, with fleshy, fruit-filled personalities. For the most part, the firm, rustic tannin found in many of his colleagues’ 2001s (the majority of which are not recommended) was not detected in any of his offerings. That may be because Meo waited longer to harvest (as he states), extracted more delicately, or because he’s one of the few Burgundians to stir the lees of his reds (which builds flesh)... or a combination of the three. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524