The 2005 Clos Vougeot displays roasted, singed meatiness along with bitter-sweet, szechuan pepper-tinged mulberry fruit. Boasting terrific density on the palate, fineness of tannin, clarity of fruit, and saline, chalk and wet stone manifestations of mineral, this finishes with pungent spice and stone fruit. Lock this away for 8-10 years. Between the effects of drought and of localized hail (in May, before it could effect quality) Jean-Nicolas Meo reported one of his smallest-ever harvests. His production, however, is being boosted these days by a range of negociant wines under the label “Meo-Camuzet Frere et Soeur” (marked “F&S” in the listing above). The top wines had been assembled in tank and sulfured in preparation for bottling, and were suffering a bit on account of this. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25.