Chartreuse-like floral and herbal essences, musk melon, and borderline over-ripe peach scent the 2006 Mussbacher Eselshaut Riesling Kabinett. Overtly sweet, hinting at caramelized peach, and somewhat sultry for Kabinett, it manages a long, bitter-sweet finish – suggesting citrus oil, licorice and herbal lozenges – without its decadence veering into spoilage, and with welcome hints of fresh citrus fruit and salt. Enjoy this over the next 2-3 years. Muller-Catoir’s vineyards were twice ravaged by hail, so a small harvest was guaranteed even before the roller-coaster of 2006 temperatures and precipitation was taken into account. Martin Franzen followed the long-standing tradition at this address of labor-intensive green harvest, selectivity, and unwillingness to compromise, in this case in the face of rapidly encroaching botrytis that – as he readily admits – rapdily turned ignoble. The upshot is a largely successful collection, much-reduced number, generally late-assembled but early (March)-bottled.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300.

Round and ample, this Riesling features grapefruit, white pepper, clove and orange notes. It's buoyed by the vibrant structure, lingering nicely on the long, tangy finish. Drink now through 2022. 6 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Germany / Pfalz Select to Add