2007 Der Wein Vom Stein now incorporates the words “Cuvee” and “Gemischer Satz” (becoming increasingly familiar to Austrians from the promotion of Viennese field blends) on its label, and is as usual based on a terraced, Traminer- and Muskateller-dominated vineyard, to which is added separate lots of inter alia Riesling (around 20%). Fresh lemon, apricot, and boxwood in the nose lead into a glossy textured but (for this cuvee) unusually fresh and lively palate, bitter notes of lemon zest, pungent herbs, and apricot kernel combining with salty, chalky notes for a decidedly invigorating and gripping finish. This should prove versatile and fascinating at table for at least 3-4 years. On account of the hot, dry July, Neumayer says he only did one spraying against mildew and almost no manicuring of the foliage. He picked well into October, since he did not find he was risking such high potential alcohol as his 2006s had reached already in the early days of that month. These wines have what he calls the “cracking” of acidity that invigorates and refreshes. (Note that because of a change in importers at the beginning of this year, prices on these wines were not yet available to me, and the wines themselves will only begin arriving later in the year. Readers should consult my reviews of the 2006s in issue 177 for a ballpark idea of eventual retail prices.) The wines of this years’ Riesling collection chez Neumayer were all very slow to ferment and ended up completely dry at the upper twelve’s in alcohol.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com