Also new is the 2008 Les Chevaux Red Wine which is a blend of 34% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah with the balance Cabernet Franc and Malbec aged 14-18 months in 30% new French and American oak. It emits an inviting perfume of Asian spices, incense, violets, tobacco, cassis, and black currant. In the glass it opens to reveal excellent concentration, plenty of volume, spicy flavors, and enough structure to provide enjoyment through 2020, quite an achievement for a $15 wine. Columbia Crest, part of the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, is Washington's largest winery. It produces mammoth amounts of wine (2,000,000+ cases) at a remarkably high level of quality. A visit to the cellars reveals brilliant organization, high morale, and a sense of personal involvement by the staff that undoubtedly adds value to the finished wine.www.columbia-crest.com

A very different composition from the 2007 Les Chevaux, this year’s blend is 34% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah, 8% Cabernet Franc and 8% Malbec. It’s a tannic wine, and seems to put a lot of emphasis on the vanilla/tobacco flavors that characterize so many blended reds these days. Fair value, but somewhat generic. ——P.G.(12/31/2010)—— 86