The 2007 Ares is 100% Shiraz from Barossa and McLaren Vale aged for 24 months in barrel, the last 12 in 100% new French. A glass-coating opaque purple color, it displays an aromatic array of toast, smoke, game, lavender, and blueberry. Dense, ripe, and savory but slightly compact (a common trait in this vintage), this is a solid effort that does not come close to justifying its extravagant price. Michael Twelftree’s Two Hands negociant label is solid but not quite up to the standards established by the past several years because of the challenging 2007 and 2008 vintages in South Australia. The wines are discussed in the order in which they were presented. The Garden Series is designed to highlight Shiraz from a diversity of appellations (or GIs as they are known in Australia). Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; www.twohandswines.com

Big and brawny, with a dense core of fresh blueberry, currant, raspberry and dusky spice flavors that sprawl over a layer of prickly tannins. It all melds together on the finish, shooting off sparks of espresso and licorice. The afterburners kick in and this sails off into a long coda. Needs time to soften. Shiraz. Best from 2011 through 2019. 1,200 cases made.