Drouhin Vaudon’s 2008 Chablis Les Clos is (for its site) surprisingly decadent in aromas, evincing faded lily, quince, ripe peach and Persian melon, all of which follow on a luscious, succulent palate, suffused with recognizable site-typical chalk. This rather broad, impressively-concentrated, but in no way heavy Les Clos should drink well sooner than most 2008s from the site, but may well merit following for half a dozen or more years. The Chablis of Domaine Drouhin are now labeled “Drouhin Vaudon” (and with an attractive new design), reflecting the long-standing collective name for these properties, from the Moulin de Vaudon that Robert Drouhin’s purchased in the 1960s, along with extensive Chablis acreage, in what at the time could only have been called an act of faith – or foolishness. Unfortunately, due to press of time, I missed out on tasting a couple of the premier crus in this 2008 collection. Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

Taut, tight, steely wine that is immensely concentrated. This is classic mineral-driven Chablis, the crisp citrus fruit and pear flavors integrated into a dominant structure. It needs aging, 5–6 years or more. ——R.V.(5/1/2011)—— 94