The Schaefer 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett smells of fresh apple, mango, pink grapefruit, and heliotrope, offering an effusive contrast with the corresponding Himmelreich. Lush yet light on the palate, this finishes with counterpoint provided by apple pit, citrus zest, the bitter side of the vanilla bean, and the proverbial impression of wet stone. I would not hesitate to hold it for at least a dozen years, though it is already delightful.
I am by no means the first to remark that Willi Schaefer and Christoph had a hard act to follow after their remarkable collection of 2007s, but its successor represents an outstanding group characterized by vintage vivacity as well as the estate’s usual impeccable balance. “This is a classic Mosel year marked by its snappy (knackige) acids and high extract,” comments Willi Schaefer, adding that he “would rank it midway between 2007 and 2004. Around mid-October, a good 50% of the grapes were fully ripe, but some there were still some that were green, didn’t taste bad, but were by no means perfect, and those had to be left hanging until late in the month. If harvested along with the truly ripe fruit, they would have lent a sour note. In the event, a longer than usual stay on healthy fine lees helped to mitigate the 2008s’ acidity.” The Schaefers acknowledged the role of luck that the weather played along with this strategy, even if overall yields were unusually low for this estate. The small crop size – reinforced by the felicitous results of numerous trial blends – resulted in a relatively low number of individual bottlings for this address. “The band of ripeness was relatively narrow this year,” observes Schaefer, “and only after the wines were fermenting did it become really clear which should be Kabinett and which Spatlese.”
Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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