The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon – Old Vines (35 years of age) elevates the bar. Composed of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot, it is opaque purple-colored and delivers a superb perfume of pain grille, scorched earth, espresso, black currants, and blueberries. This is followed by an extracted wine with richly flavored dark fruits, outstanding concentration, and great balance leading to a 60-second, pure finish. Give this powerful wine 4-6 years of additional bottle age and drink it through 2035. Tel. (509) 525-4129; www.woodwardcanyon.com

This is 95.5% Cabernet and 4.5% Petit Verdot—a new twist. The wine is almost pure black, and made in a supersappy, rich, ripe, dense and saturated style—the currently fashionable mode. Thick, chocolaty and young, it tastes great, juicy and sappy, making this a real impact wine. Though powerful and raw, it is irresistibly vibrant and packed with gorgeous fruit.——P.G.(12/1/2007)—— 94