The 2007 Etna Rosso is a gorgeous wine that captures the magic of the Etna. Layers of sweet dark cherries, licorice, menthol and leather flow gracefully from this elegant, beautifully delineated red. There is a clarity and purity to the fruit that is quite striking. Hints of tar and smoke add the final layers of complexity on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (212) 268-0906

With the looming crater of the Etna volcano visible just outside the winery door, Cottanera pays homage to local viticulture with this red blend of local grapes. The wine is focused and firm, with bright berry and zesty spice overtones. ——M.L.(4/1/2012)—— 90