The 2009 Anas-Cetta is a gorgeous wine laced with expressive succulent peaches and apricots intermingled with exotic, floral aromatics that recall Malvasia or Gewurztraminer. Subtle notes of sweetness suggest the Anas-Cetta will pair beautifully with a wide range of foods, particularly those with an element of spiciness. Hints of ginger, passion fruit and spices linger on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Cogno is one of Piedmont’s undiscovered jewels. From top to bottom, the wines are consistently excellent to outstanding. In recent years, the estate has made great strides with their Baroli, but readers should not look past the entry-level wines, as they merit just as much attention. Readers will have to wait until 2011 for the 2006 Barolo Bricco Pernice and 2005 Barolo Vigna Elena. In the meantime, there is no shortage of fine bottles from this small, artisan grower. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200