Lingenfelder's 2007 Freinsheimer Goldberg Riesling Spatlese trocken smells of sage, resin, milled grain, ocean breezes, and smoked meat; comes to the palate glossy, and subtly creamy (a trait underscored by hints of lactic acid), but surprisingly delicate for a dry Riesling of its site and Pradikat; and finishes with toasted almond and grains and saline, meaty savor. Plan to enjoy this over the next 3-4 years. The Musikantenbuckel Riesling Kabinett trocken was brighter and juicier, but much less distinctive in personality. Lingenfelder wines now have different importers for (most) different states, among them Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808.