The 2006 Te Muna Road Pinot Noir was a little sullen on the nose when I tasted it, the palate displays very fine tannins with a touch of sous-bois and spice towards the plum finish. The precocious Craggy Range has rapidly become one of New Zealand’s premier wine producers. Established in 1997, it is the collaboration between businessman Terry Peabody and the winemaking expertise of quiet, retiring Steve Smith MW, who concentrates upon the Bordeaux-blend “Sophia” and the Sauvignon Blanc. Smith has employed the skills of Rob Easthope to focus upon Chardonnay and Syrah and Adrian Baker on Pinot Noir, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. The state-of-the-art winery is modeled on futuristic architecture and is over-shadowed by the peaks that give rise to their name. The philosophy is firmly directed towards small production of single vineyard sites a la Burgundy. They purchased their own vineyard in the Te Muna sub-region of Martinborough where Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are cultivated, whilst fruit from the South Island is out-sourced. Their two flagship wines of “Sophia,” a Bordeaux blend and “Le Sol,” which is 100% Syrah. Recent vintages of these were tasted both at the winery and appeared in blind horizontal tasting where their quality shone through. Importer: Kobrand Corporation, Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7700; Fax (914) 253-7910

This wine combines complexity and an appealingly gentle texture to make for a compelling whole. Smoky oak influences fade into the background as the wine airs, leaving the melange of plum, black cherry and herbal notes lingering on the mouthwatering finish. Drink now–2012.——J.C.(3/1/2008)—— 91