From a 4-acre, east-facing Mt. Veeder vineyard, this blend of 99.96% Syrah and .04% Viognier was aged 20 months in French oak, and bottled without filtration. Sadly, only 307 cases were produced. It is a classy, savory, complex, seamless Syrah revealing wonderful aromas of sweet blackberries and currants intermixed with licorice, acacia flowers, and hints of wood as well as earth. Textured and broad, with beautiful integration of acidity, tannin, and wood, this complex effort should drink well for a decade. Kudos!Tel. (707) 253-0653

A fine mountain wine, tough and tannic in youth, with a gritty tightness and bite of fresh acidity in the finish. But there’s a dense core of cherry-berry fruit and an earth, mushroomy concentration that suggests ageability. ——S.H.(2/1/2004)—— 88