The fruit from the Goldberg all went to improve the 2004 Blaufrankisch Schutzner Stein – blended once again with 15% Merlot. Fresh ripe black fruits and subtle flowers inform the nose. Deep mulberry and blackberry fruit, nut oils, and loamy earthiness load the palate, which is dense and full-bodied yet preserves cut and freshness. There is a lot of tannin present, but of a refined sort. A salty, briny, pithy back end reflects the wine’s enormous dry extract. The overall combination of intensity and ripe flavors with a “cool,” raw fruit cast is most intriguing, reflecting, as Silvia Prieler says, that rare combination for Burgenland of phenolics that matured ahead of the sugar curve. This will be fascinating to follow over a decade or more, and its cool-climate personality may seem even more exceptional with hindsight than it already does now. I won’t sing the praises of the 2003 Goldberg once again, as it was still not in bottle when I visited. By the way, I tasted some Pinot Noir experiments this year in which Siliva Prieler used a regimen of open top fermentors, pigeage, and less new oak. For my taste, these represented promising developments.Also recommended: 2004 Chardonnay (not available; 85), 2004 Blaufrankisch Johannishohe ($27.00; 85-87)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300