The 2006 Valpolicella Classico Ripassa reveals lovely clarity and precision in its perfumed dark fruit. This vibrant, poised Valpolicella offers tons of depth and a long, refreshing finish. Zenato’s Valpolicella is made from 80% Corvina, 10% Sangiovese and 10% Rondinella, and is aged in small French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. This is a superb set of wines from Zenato. Sadly, Sergio Zenato passed away earlier this year, but his children Alberto and Nadia, along with their mother Carla, are in good shape to provide continuity going forward. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Plenty of stamina, vivacity and richness. Very good balance, depth, big finish. Big, but not overdone.