The 2006 Reserve Merlot was aged in 39% new oak. It is dark ruby-colored with aromas of balsam wood, cassis, and black cherry. Moderately structured on the palate, this medium-bodied effort has plenty of ripe, spicy fruit, good balance, and a medium long, fruit-filled finish. Drink it through 2016. Waterbrook, one of the pioneer wineries in Walla Walla, was purchased in 2006 by Precept Brands which is nearing completion of a large, new winery just outside of the city limits. It is clear that production will be ramped up significantly so the test will be whether quality at the level of the above wines can be maintained. Tel. (206) 267-5294; www.preceptbrands.com

An outstanding example of Washington Merlot. It needs more bottle age, but has all the right stuffing. There is plenty of still-to-be-integrated new oak, toast, and a dark and earthy core. Note that the Loess (Leonetti) vineyard contributes to the blend. Decant this; it could be a real sleeper.——P.G.(8/1/2009)—— 90