The 2007 The Twenty-eight Road Mourvedre was sourced predominantly from a vineyard plated in 1918. It spent 10-12 months in French and American oak. Dark ruby colored, it displays an aromatic bouquet of underbrush, mushroom, iodine, rhubarb, and floral notes. This terroir-driven wine offers plenty of meaty blue fruit on the palate. Dense, intense, structured, and long, it demands 4-6 years of cellaring and will offer prime drinking from 2013 to 2027. The d’Arenberg portfolio is loaded with values. The winery works with over 140 growers to fashion their superb blends. For the 2008 vintage, the entry-level The Stump Jump series has been expanded.Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com

The roll call of Australian wines made from pure Mourvèdre is not long, but this is one of the best: made by the colourful (and not just his taste in Hawaian shirts) Chester Osborn, it has a delightful Mediterranean quality of black fruits and savoury fresh acidity, a Bandol-in-Oz classic with lovely supple tannins and freshness. Still youthful, it can only improve with age over the next five years, to 2015.

Mourvedre—often called Mataro in Australia—isn’t often seen on its own, but this is a solid example. Toast, mint and vanilla notes mark the nose, while dark, plummy fruit comes through on the palate. The tannins are surprisingly soft for the variety, but the wine finishes with crisp acids. ——J.C.(5/1/2011)—— 87