As part of his exploration of the potential offered by his two latest land acquisitions, in Bad Krueznach, Donnhoff has bottled a 2007 Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Riesling Kabinett that distinctively displays spiced crabapple, orange zest, winter pear, sweet floral perfume, and toasted nuts in a dense yet alcoholically light and delicate matrix. Subtle suggestions of mineral elements including a somehow tactile sense of stoniness join in a long, interactive finish featuring plenty of sheer refreshment. Donnhoff is leaning toward channeling the fruit of Kahlenberg solely into dry wine, but this seems to make a strong case for not doing so. Enjoy it over the next 10-12 years. While Donnhoff returned to his usual humility in characterizing the latest vintage - following an atypically unabashed outbreak of enthusiasm in describing his indeed amazing collection of 2006s - it is clear that the 2007s delight him in a similar way, as outstanding representations of their respective sites at Spatlese ripeness. (Note, incidentally, that the Pradikat has been removed from any dry wines here, in keeping with a new convention of the Nahe branch of the VDP growers- association.) -Within that range of ripeness,- he submits, -one best-recognizes the site. Here you have nothing exaggerated, but instead a normal harvest, meaning a documentation of the vineyards, each a different face on the landscape. They all went to the same school and had the same opportunities- he adds, gesturing to the long row of Spatlesen on the tasting table, and alluding to his own role as well as the vintage-s. -It was a bit intimidating this year at harvest,- he added, -because when the grapes are perfect, you can only make mistakes.- I had the rare fortune to taste this collection twice, and like so many 2007s (a comment that even more growers made about their 2008s) the wines were much more impressive in September than in Spring. A 2007 Hermannshohle Trockenbeerenauslese, by the way, is still trying to become wine after two years.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Terrific cut sets the grapefruit, orange and mineral flavors in relief. This is racy and detailed, with a streak of grapefruit and stone notes on the long finish. Best from 2009 through 2024.??–BS??Region: Germany / Nahe Select to Add